Growing medlar trees for autumn fruit and jelly

A fruit for the patient gardener

Medlars are one of the quiet treasures of the English orchard. They ask for little, crop when most other fruit has finished, and produce something genuinely unusual: hard, brown, russet-skinned fruit that must soften — or blet — before it is fit to eat. In a good autumn, a single mature tree can give you enough fruit for several batches of old-fashioned medlar jelly, plus a bowl or two of medlar cheese for the winter table. If you have a sunny corner, a bit of space and a willingness to wait, this is a tree that rewards rural living with very little fuss.

Choosing and planting a medlar

Medlars are small, self-fertile trees, usually grown on a semi-vigorous rootstock and reaching around 3–4 metres at maturity. They tolerate most soils, provided drainage is reasonable, and they crop best in a sheltered, sunny spot. A south or west-facing wall or the edge of a vegetable plot suits them well. Bare-root trees are the best value and should be planted between November and March, whenever the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.

Varieties worth seeking out include ‘Nottingham’, a reliable cropper with good flavour; ‘Royal’, slightly larger and ornamental; ‘Breda Giant’, productive with bigger fruit; and ‘Dutch’, a traditional choice for jelly. Plant at least 3–4 metres from other trees, dig a hole wide enough to take the roots comfortably, and set the tree at the same depth as it was in the nursery. Stake young trees for the first three or four years, water them well in dry spells, and mulch with well-rotted manure or garden compost, keeping the mulch clear of the trunk.

Care through the year

One of the joys of medlars is how little pruning they need. In late winter, while the tree is still dormant, remove any dead, damaged or crossing branches, and thin out crowded growth to keep an open, goblet-shaped centre. Medlars fruit on spurs on older wood, so avoid heavy cutting back; a light tidy every couple of years is usually enough. Feed established trees with a balanced fertiliser in early spring if growth is weak, and top up the mulch annually.

• Water young trees deeply during their first two summers.
• Protect blossom from late frosts if your site is exposed.
• Watch for bullfinches, which can strip buds in late winter.
• Remove aphids by hand or encourage ladybirds and lacewings.
• Net ripening fruit if birds become a nuisance.

Medlars are relatively pest-free compared with apples and pears. The main problems are birds, occasional aphids and poor drainage. Good air circulation around the branches helps prevent disease, and a yearly mulch keeps the tree vigorous without forcing soft growth.

Bletting: the art of patience

Medlar fruit is hard and unpalatable when picked. It needs to blet — a controlled softening process that turns the flesh brown, aromatic and honeyed. Traditionally, growers waited until the first frosts, but modern advice is to pick the fruit in late October or November when it comes away easily, then blet it indoors. Frost can help, but a hard freeze may spoil the fruit, so do not rely on it entirely.

Spread the fruit in a single layer on wooden trays or cardboard, not touching, in a cool, dark, airy room. A shed, garage or unheated porch is ideal. Check them every few days. Depending on temperature and variety, bletting takes two to four weeks. The fruit is ready when the skin wrinkles, the flesh feels soft like a ripe avocado, and the aroma is rich and slightly winy. Discard any that rot or smell sour. At this point the pulp can be scooped out and eaten raw with sugar and cream, though most people turn it into jelly.

Making medlar jelly

Medlar jelly is a beautiful amber-pink preserve with a subtle, spiced apple flavour. Roughly chop the bletted fruit — skins, cores and all — and put it in a large preserving pan. Add enough water to just cover, bring to a simmer and cook gently until the fruit is soft and pulpy, about 30–45 minutes. Do not boil hard or you will lose the delicate set.

Strain the pulp through a sterilised jelly bag or a double layer of muslin over a large bowl, and leave it overnight. Resist squeezing the bag: squeezing makes the jelly cloudy. Measure the strained juice into a clean pan. For every 500ml of juice, add 450g of caster sugar and the juice of half a lemon. Heat slowly until the sugar dissolves, then boil rapidly until setting point is reached — about 10–15 minutes. Test on a cold saucer; if it wrinkles when pushed, it is ready. Pot into warm, sterilised jars and seal.

Medlar cheese and other uses

Medlar cheese is the thicker, slower-cooked cousin of the jelly. Take the strained pulp left from jelly-making, or cook bletted fruit until soft, then rub through a sieve. For every 500g of pulp, add 300–400g of sugar, a knob of butter and a pinch of mixed spice or cinnamon. Cook gently, stirring often, until the mixture is very thick and comes away from the pan. Press into small jars or moulds and keep in the fridge. It is excellent with cheese, cold meats or hot toast.

You can also roast bletted medlars with a little honey, or add the pulp to apple chutney for a deeper, gamey note. In a rural garden, a medlar tree earns its place not just for the fruit but for its blossom in late spring, its handsome autumn colour and its tolerance of neglect. Plant one now, and in a few years you will have a genuine taste of the old English orchard — brown, soft, strange and utterly delicious.